Vegetarian Italian cookbook. Almost 200 recipes and fascinating information about food: history; folklore; origins; role of food in historical events and religious rituals; and their uses in herbal healing.
Preface
Food is an integral part of Italian life. It is used to celebrate, mourn, comfort, and to enjoy just for its own sake. For me, holidays were always about a crowded dining room table overflowing with food, voices, and the sound of utensils clanking against dishes. I was the baby of my family and didn’t have much to say during those countless feasts.
So as I sat at the table, I just ate and listened and observed, as something quietly formed in my head. Those holiday dinners became the seedlings from which this book would spring. Our holiday meals were usually hosted by my mother, Rosa, and my Aunt Maria (it didn’t matter whose house it was in, they always hosted together), and food was abundant.
When my brother, Fabio, a vegetarian since 1986, declined the main entrée (always meat), someone would invariably say, “What, no meat?” Year after year, the question was put to him. It became almost amusing. It also showed how unaccustomed old world Europeans were to the concept of vegetarianism. The odd thing is that Italians are not the big meat eaters that people think they are. While the idea of excluding meat from their diets may seem strange to Italians-frightening, even-the truth is they wouldn’t miss it that much, for many traditional Italian dishes are vegetarian.
When I first told my parents that I’d become a vegetarian-seven years after my brother had-they said, “What does this mean, you won’t eat meat?” I wanted to say something sarcastic, but it would have been lost in the translation. So I just let them continue.
“So what will you eat? Chicken? Fish?” All I could do was roll my eyes.
Since I was the second veggie child in the family, I was prepared for the broken record that would undoubtedly play every time that meat platter came around the table. Maybe because of my brother, my family caught on more quickly with me. When I said, “No, thanks,” they left it at that. But it took them a long time to understand that meatless meals can still be complete. I have to admit that it took some learning on my part, too.
When I first gave up meat, I discovered that I did not know how to prepare vegetarian meals. It was not just a matter of eliminating the meat and eating what was left. I had to learn how to build fulfilling, nutritious meals. It became necessary to learn how to make a variety of dishes so that I would not drown in pasta with marinara sauce; as much as I love that, one can eat only so much of it. So I began buying cookbooks to learn the process of cooking all over again. There were plenty of vegetarian cookbooks on the market, but they did not reflect the tastes and techniques I’d grown up with. I enjoy all types of food, but Italian is my go-to cuisine, my comfort food. Italian cookbooks, on the other hand, posed a different problem: I used only a fraction of the recipes, since so many contained meat. What a waste.
My goal was to cook authentic meals that would rival my mother’s. I wanted to lay out a feast like she did, and fill my guests’ bellies without having them miss the meat. Then it occurred to me that rather than learn from total strangers who were fortunate enough to get a book published, I would learn from those around me, the people who influenced my daily life-my mother, my aunt, my friends…and me. The recipes in this book are a combination of these sources. Many are my mother’s recipes, those I remember from childhood. The others come from family and friends and my own creative juices.
There are many things that we, as human beings, take for granted: our ability to walk, speak, think, breathe. The rising of the sun and moon. The existence of cats and dogs. And food. The fact that food exists, that we can purchase it or grow it, prepare it and eat it. Too many people don’t realize that food was not always “just there.” It is accurate to say that foods were waiting for us to discover them, but knowledge about their properties and uses came to us a little at a time. Other species eat the same foods all their lives, and are happy to so do. But because humans are such curious, adventurous, and easily bored creatures, we discovered what was okay for us to eat and what wasn’t. Through trial and error, we now have an immense array of foods to choose from.
Since I was learning a new way of cooking and eating, I began to examine the individual components of the meals I was preparing. How did people know that tomatoes would make a great sauce? How come the word pepper applies to two completely different things? Where do spices come from? For thousands of years, people used foods for many purposes. Why should we just assume that a particular item was always eaten or that it was always used just for sustenance? It was necessary for me to understand the role of food in our lives, physically and spiritually. Within these pages, you will find much of what I discovered.
Preface
Food is an integral part of Italian life. It is used to celebrate, mourn, comfort, and to enjoy just for its own sake. For me, holidays were always about a crowded dining room table overflowing with food, voices, and the sound of utensils clanking against dishes. I was the baby of my family and didn’t have much to say during those countless feasts.
So as I sat at the table, I just ate and listened and observed, as something quietly formed in my head. Those holiday dinners became the seedlings from which this book would spring. Our holiday meals were usually hosted by my mother, Rosa, and my Aunt Maria (it didn’t matter whose house it was in, they always hosted together), and food was abundant.
When my brother, Fabio, a vegetarian since 1986, declined the main entrée (always meat), someone would invariably say, “What, no meat?” Year after year, the question was put to him. It became almost amusing. It also showed how unaccustomed old world Europeans were to the concept of vegetarianism. The odd thing is that Italians are not the big meat eaters that people think they are. While the idea of excluding meat from their diets may seem strange to Italians-frightening, even-the truth is they wouldn’t miss it that much, for many traditional Italian dishes are vegetarian.
When I first told my parents that I’d become a vegetarian-seven years after my brother had-they said, “What does this mean, you won’t eat meat?” I wanted to say something sarcastic, but it would have been lost in the translation. So I just let them continue.
“So what will you eat? Chicken? Fish?” All I could do was roll my eyes.
Since I was the second veggie child in the family, I was prepared for the broken record that would undoubtedly play every time that meat platter came around the table. Maybe because of my brother, my family caught on more quickly with me. When I said, “No, thanks,” they left it at that. But it took them a long time to understand that meatless meals can still be complete. I have to admit that it took some learning on my part, too.
When I first gave up meat, I discovered that I did not know how to prepare vegetarian meals. It was not just a matter of eliminating the meat and eating what was left. I had to learn how to build fulfilling, nutritious meals. It became necessary to learn how to make a variety of dishes so that I would not drown in pasta with marinara sauce; as much as I love that, one can eat only so much of it. So I began buying cookbooks to learn the process of cooking all over again. There were plenty of vegetarian cookbooks on the market, but they did not reflect the tastes and techniques I’d grown up with. I enjoy all types of food, but Italian is my go-to cuisine, my comfort food. Italian cookbooks, on the other hand, posed a different problem: I used only a fraction of the recipes, since so many contained meat. What a waste.
My goal was to cook authentic meals that would rival my mother’s. I wanted to lay out a feast like she did, and fill my guests’ bellies without having them miss the meat. Then it occurred to me that rather than learn from total strangers who were fortunate enough to get a book published, I would learn from those around me, the people who influenced my daily life-my mother, my aunt, my friends…and me. The recipes in this book are a combination of these sources. Many are my mother’s recipes, those I remember from childhood. The others come from family and friends and my own creative juices.
There are many things that we, as human beings, take for granted: our ability to walk, speak, think, breathe. The rising of the sun and moon. The existence of cats and dogs. And food. The fact that food exists, that we can purchase it or grow it, prepare it and eat it. Too many people don’t realize that food was not always “just there.” It is accurate to say that foods were waiting for us to discover them, but knowledge about their properties and uses came to us a little at a time. Other species eat the same foods all their lives, and are happy to so do. But because humans are such curious, adventurous, and easily bored creatures, we discovered what was okay for us to eat and what wasn’t. Through trial and error, we now have an immense array of foods to choose from.
Since I was learning a new way of cooking and eating, I began to examine the individual components of the meals I was preparing. How did people know that tomatoes would make a great sauce? How come the word pepper applies to two completely different things? Where do spices come from? For thousands of years, people used foods for many purposes. Why should we just assume that a particular item was always eaten or that it was always used just for sustenance? It was necessary for me to understand the role of food in our lives, physically and spiritually. Within these pages, you will find much of what I discovered.
None of this is to say that the only purpose of this book is to discuss the history of food or vegetarianism. Ultimately, it is a cookbook and the most important thing is the food itself. Eating is one of the joys in life that, done in a healthy manner, you can indulge in guilt-free. Mark Twain, writer and vegetarian, said, “He who does not mind his belly, will hardly mind anything else.” In other words, if you don’t take care of yourself properly, you won’t take care of anything else properly. If you take the time to eat right, you will do other things right as well. Just remember that eating properly is an important part of a long, healthy life. Even my family members, who were so accustomed to eating huge meals loaded with fat, turned over new leaves. They all eat healthier now, at first because they had to, but now because it’s their way of life.
Don’t misunderstand; this book is not intended to be used as a nutritional guide for diets or health issues, just for fun and enlightenment. As you go along, I hope that both my recipes and the fascinating-sometimes bizarre-facts and legends about food please you. After all, the need for food is the one thing all living creatures have in common.
My family is from the province of Potenza, in the southern Italian region known as Basilicata, and many of the dishes I have chosen to include are in the style of Basilicata or its neighbor, Naples. However, I’ve tried to create a nice mix of flavors and styles by touching on other parts of the country.
Most of the recipes in this book are easy and can be made in a short amount of time, an important factor these days. There are some recipes that require a little time and patience, both of which are precious commodities in our hectic, nano-second world. However, as my family-and probably yours-can tell you, some of the best things in life are worth waiting for. Or, as Julia Child put it, “Non-cooks think it’s silly to invest two hours’ work in two minutes’ enjoyment; but if cooking is evanescent, well, so is the ballet.”
So pour a glass of wine (or tea, as the case may be) and take your senses on a journey of classic and ancient culinary delights. I share with you the precious offerings of my family and our culture. I sincerely hope you enjoy them all.
Buon appetito!
Table of Contents
Introduction
Antipasto
Antipasto-Recipes
Cheese
Pasta
Pasta-Recipes
Tomatoes
Soups and Stews
Soups and Stews-Recipes
Herbs and Spices
Vegetarian Entrées and Side Dishes
Vegetarian Entrées and Side Dishes-Recipes
Beans
Rice, Risotto, and Potatoes
Rice, Risotto, and Potatoes-Recipes
Pizza
Pizza-Recipes
The Almighty Olive Oil
Bread
Bread-Recipes
Desserts
Desserts-Recipes
Glossary
Suggested Menus
Recipe Index
Pink Bean and Potato Salad with Dill
(Insalata di Fagiolini Rosa e Patate con Aneto)
2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2 cups cooked pink beans or 1 (15-ounce) can, rinsed and drained
2 cups cooked cannellini beans or 1 (15-ounce can), rinsed and drained
2 medium tomatoes, diced
1 small yellow bell pepper, diced
1 large carrot, shredded
1 small red onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon dried dillweed
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Place the potatoes in a small pot of water and bring it to a boil. Cook until they are tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well and place them in a large bowl. (Do not use an aluminum bowl; this will cause a reaction with the vinegar.)
Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Chill the salad in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Bring it back to room temperature and give it a toss before serving.
Keep leftovers tightly wrapped in the refrigerator up to 3 or 4 days.
Makes 10 to 12 servings.
Comment:
This recipe reminds me of how connected Italy is to the rest of the world. From Turkey to Mexico, bean salad is found in so many different cultures,
flavored according to regional tastes. This one features dill. The word dill comes from the Norse dilla, “to lull,” which makes sense, considering the soothing properties dill is known to have. In the Middle Ages, doctors told epilepsy patients to hold dill in their left hand to prevent seizures, and people would put dill under their pillows to help them sleep better. In Colonial America, mothers made cakes with dill for their teething babies to chew on and dill tea was given to colicky infants. Dill eases indigestion, upset stomach, and gas. In fact, there is even evidence in ancient tombs that Egyptians used dill seeds for intestinal disorders.
In the late 1700s, dill seeds were given to American children to keep them awake in church, thus getting the name “meetin’ seeds”; today, dill is used in aromatherapy to sharpen the conscious mind. The ancient Romans wove wreaths of dill (then called aneth) to wear at feasts. They mixed aneth oil in gladiators’ food, or gave them aneth tea, believing it to be a tonic and stimulant. Dill promotes appetite, helps milk production in nursing mothers, and chewing dill seeds is an old-time cure for bad breath and hiccups.
A cousin of fennel, dill was plentiful throughout history, exemplified by a story which says that in ancient Palestine, a group of angry citizens rebelled against their ruler by paying their taxes in dill seed. Newborn calves were rubbed with dill and salt to protect them from the Evil Eye. People used dill to protect themselves, too, from witchcraft and sorcery (in fact, the Catholic name for dill is “Devil-Away”). In Germany, new brides carried dill as a talisman of good fortune. Dill was thought to have magical properties and is part of contemporary formulas for love potions. It is ruled by Mercury-ruler of communications-which makes it a good herb to incorporate into your diet when dealing with legal matters.
Italian Vegetable Dip
(Bagna Cauda)
2 cups (1 pint) heavy cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons finely minced garlic
1 vegetable bouillon cube
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
Vegetables and bread of your choice for dipping
In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil over medium heat.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. When the cream comes to a boil, gradually add it to the butter and garlic and slowly whisk it in. Add the remaining ingredients and blend well. Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture has thickened, about 10 to 15 minutes.
Keep the bagna cauda warm by serving it in a dip warmer, fondue pot, or chafing dish. Cut up an assortment of vegetables of your choice and rip up bite-size pieces of savory bread, such as pumpernickel or sourdough, and arrange them on a platter to serve with the dip.
Refrigerate leftovers. Tightly sealed, it will keep 2 to 4 days.
Makes about 1½ cups.
TIP: For an extra-thick dip, let it sit overnight in the refrigerator after you’ve cooked it. Heat it gently on the stovetop and transfer it.
Comment:
The expression bagna cauda comes from the words bagno caldo, meaning “hot bath.” Unlike most dips, this vegetable dip is not chilled but kept heated, creating a warm “bath” for your crudités. In Italy, it is served with raw as well as cooked vegetables, such as boiled potatoes, beets, and baked onions, making the bagna cauda more of a dressing than a dip. Use it also in place of hollandaise or any other sauce you might use on a side dish. The flavors in a hot dip are cooked together and are better blended than in a chilled one, resulting in a smoother, richer flavor. It will be a different experience for your guests, that’s for sure. It is traditionally made with anchovies (I’ve heard that the supreme bagna cauda would be made with rare 3-year-old anchovies) but I’ve omitted them here, increased the herbs, and added other ingredients to make up for the strong flavor of the missing anchovies and found it to be just as good. When you are ready to serve it, heat it up in a small pot and transfer it to a dip warmer, fondue pot, or small chafing dish.
Linguine with Creamy Leek and Sage Sauce
(Linguine con Sugo Cremoso di Porro e Salvia)
1 pound linguine
1 tablespoon salt for water
3 tablespoons olive oil
¾ cup chopped leek
1 large garlic clove, minced
3 cups cherry tomatoes, peeled and halved
¾ cup chopped mushrooms
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh sage or 2 teaspoons dried sage
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup heavy or light cream
Grated parmigiano or pecorino romano
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the linguine and salt for the water and cook, stirring often, until al dente, about 10 to 13 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium pan. Add the leek and garlic and sauté over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are golden, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, sage, salt, and pepper and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and let it simmer over low heat for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and keep it covered.
When the pasta is done, drain well and transfer to a serving bowl. Pour the sauce over the linguine and mix. Sprinkle on the parmigiano or pecorino, stir again, and serve hot.
Store leftovers tightly sealed in the refrigerator up to 5 days.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.61
Comment:
Originally from the North Mediterranean and a member of the mint family, sage has been mentioned in many ancient writings, including those of Pliny and Hippocrates. The name comes from the Latin word salvere, “to save or heal.” Sage was always considered indispensable as a medicinal aid. It was given to tuberculosis patients in the Middle Ages to prevent night sweats and is still used today for excessive perspiration. It is also used for digestion and stomach ailments, to heal inflammations and sores in the mouth, as a compress for wounds, and it is made into a tea for sore gums. Apicius liked using it as a seasoning and Charlemagne ordered sage to be planted in his domains. The Druids, an ancient pagan cult, believed sage was so powerful it could bring back the dead, and in the Middle Ages it was believed that sage would ensure a long life. The School of Salerno once posed the question “Why should a man die when sage grows in his garden?”
Europeans used to believe that sage would not grow in one’s garden if one’s financial affairs were in bad shape. They also believed that sage and tea would bring the color back to gray hair and that scrubbing one’s teeth with it would make them whiter. It is frequently found in Native American foods, products (such as dream pillows), and rituals; burned along with cedar, sage is used for purification and to ensure fidelity. Native Americans also believe that sage has curative properties for such things as kidney and bladder problems. In aromatherapy, it is used to improve one’s memory. Sage is a natural ant repellant, so your food cupboard is a good place to store it. Grown in many different colors, sage is one of the essential herbs of a bouquet garni (French for “herb bundle”), used to flavor soups and stews, and is often beautifully paired with leeks. Here, sage flavors linguine, meaning “little tongues.”
Tidbit: September is National Pasta Month in the U.S.
Sautéed Asparagus with Parmigiano Reggiano
(Asparagi con Parmigiano Reggiano)
1 pound asparagus
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup grated parmigiano
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
Bring an inch of water to a boil in the bottom of a steamer (or a pot, if you’re using a steamer rack).
Meanwhile, trim the asparagus by snapping off the bottoms and trimming off rough or discolored parts. When the water comes to a boil, add the asparagus in the top part of the steamer and cover. Cook until the asparagus is crisp-tender, about 6 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the stalks. Remove from the heat and let any water that has built up on the asparagus drip off.
Melt the butter in a large pan and swish it around to coat the bottom. Add the cooked asparagus and toss to blend.
Cover the pan and cook over medium heat until the asparagus has softened a little more, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the salt, parmigiano, pepper, and red pepper. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus begins to brown slightly, about another 2 or 3 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to a serving platter and serve hot.
Keep leftovers tightly sealed in the refrigerator 2 or 3 days.
Makes 4 servings.
Comment:
The word asparagus is said to come from the word aspharagos, a Greek work meaning “as long as one’s throat.” The Greeks ate wild asparagus while the Romans cultivated it. In fact, Romans had special troops just to harvest asparagus, and they even took some into the Alps to freeze so they could enjoy it during the winter months. The ancient Egyptians thought that asparagus was worthy enough to offer to their gods. Asparagus (sacred to Mars, god of war) finally began traveling across Europe beyond Greece and Rome well after the Medieval period. Today, asparagus is a delicacy all over the world.
Over the years, asparagus has been considered an aphrodisiac and the Chinese believe that the roots of asparagus plants increase feelings of compassion and love. Because of its shape (particularly white asparagus), an Elizabethan writer was compelled to write that asparagus “manifestly provoketh Venus,” the goddess of love. In India today, asparagus is used to increase fertility, relieve menstrual cramps, and increase milk production in nursing mothers.
One story goes that a 17th-century mathematician named Bernard de Fontenelle was having his favorite asparagus dish for supper. Unexpectedly the Abbé Terrasson dropped in and asked if he could stay for dinner. An annoyed de Fontenelle ordered his cook to dress half of the asparagus with his favorite oil dressing and the other half with a white sauce for his guest. Fontenelle must have quietly cursed the Abbé for taking half his asparagus because just before dinner, the Abbé fell to the floor with apoplexy (an old-fashioned word for stroke). Seeing his opportunity, Fontenelle ran to the kitchen and shouted, “All the asparagus with oil!” Julius Caesar, on the other hand, liked his asparagus with melted butter. Many Italians to follow would keep asparagus close to their hearts and constant in their stomachs.
Tidbit: In the U.S., May is National Asparagus Month.
Zucchini Frittata
(Frittata di Zucchine)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup finely chopped onion
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 plum tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
3 large fresh basil leaves, minced
1 large zucchini, cut into 1/8 -inch-thick slices
4 eggs
2 teaspoons grated parmigiano
½ teaspoon salt
In a 10-inch nonstick pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent and the garlic is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato, parsley, and basil. Stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add the zucchini, cover the pan, and cook until they are tender, about 5 to 8 minutes.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs well. Add the zucchini mixture from the pan, along with the remaining ingredients; mix well. Pour the mixture back into the same pan, cover the pan, and cook over medium heat until the eggs are firm and the underside is well browned, about 10 to 13 minutes. Slide the frittata onto a plate; invert it onto another plate and slide it back into the pan. Continue cooking until the underside is well browned, about another 5 minutes.
Slide the frittata onto a serving plate. Cut it into wedges and serve it hot or at room temperature.
Keep leftovers tightly wrapped in the refrigerator 2 to 4 days.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Comment:
All around the world, people eat eggs of all shapes, sizes, and species. High in protein, all essential vitamins (except C), and most essential minerals, eggs have been eaten both as a daily form of sustenance and as an occasional delicacy, depending on the region and type of egg in question. Most of the ancient cultures ate eggs of one type or another and numerous cultural and cult ceremonies were, and still are, centered around eggs. The Pheonicians believed that an egg represented Earth (the yolk) surrounded by Heaven (the white), while the Egyptians believed that the yolk represented the sun and the white represented the moon. Native Americans believed that the Great Spirit came from a golden egg before creating the earth (which really puts a new spin on the “which-came-first” debate). During the Renaissance, eggs were the chief source of food next to meat. Benedetto Varchi, a 16th-century historian, wrote a treatise on boiled eggs. Pierre Francois de la Varenne, a 17th-century chef, wrote a cookbook featuring 60 different egg recipes.
The most important egg in the world (in terms of feeding masses of people) is the hen’s egg. The New World was introduced to hens’ eggs in 1493, when Christopher Columbus brought chickens to the West Indies. They were finally brought to mainland North America by the Pilgrims. Depending on whom you ask, the egg might be either wrongly maligned or vastly overrated, but there must be a reason why it was once called “nature’s perfect food.”
Tidbit: In the year 1000 A.D., explorer Tidbit In the year 1000 A.D., explorer Lief Ericsson wrote that he had encountered a land where “there were so many birds that it was scarcely possible to step between their eggs.”Lief Ericsson wrote that he had encountered a land where “there were so many birds that it was scarcely possible to step between their eggs.”
Copyright 2008 Roberta Roberti. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the author.
Post a Comment